How to Naturally Moisturize Dry Hands Caused By Over-Washing and Sanitizing
Wash your hands with soap and water is the mantra in the age of a pandemic viral infection. Washing and sanitizing so excessively is likely to dry and chap the skin. Soaps, alcohol and even tap water, have the ability to break down the oils and proteins that protect the skin from damage and moisture loss. A good, pH balanced hand moisturizer, applied regularly, can mimic the protective layer and assist in holding and maintaining moisture in the hands.
Soaps, alcohol and even tap water, have the ability to break down the oils and proteins that protect the skin from damage and moisture loss.
A moisturizer can contain fats and oils, synthetic emollients, petroleum-based ingredients or a combination of natural, synthetic and petroleum. The function of a moisturizer is to coat the skin with ingredients that will serve as a protective barrier, holding water (moisture) at the skins surface layers, and support acidic pH balance. Ideally, this is accomplished with a finished feel on the skin that is not oily or greasy.
THE SKINS PROTECTIVE BARRIER
Skin has a protective layer at its surface called the Skin Barrier Function or the Lipid Barrier, that provides an important role in human immunity. The stratum corneum, the very outer layer of the skin, is made up of tough, resistant proteins called corneocytes, with an acidic coating (called the acid mantle with a pH between 5 - 5.9) and lipids. The lipids, along with other compounds like ceramides and cholesterol, sit within or between the corneocytes. As part of barrier immunity, the skin has a coating of beneficial bacteria, fungi, mites and viruses, often referred to as the microbiome. The barrier is a protective shell that keeps harmful pathogens from infecting, prevents potentially harmful elements from penetrating into the body, and holds moisture within the skins surface.
DAMAGE TO THE BARRIER FUNCTION
The barrier is a protective shell that keeps harmful pathogens from infecting, prevents potentially harmful elements from penetrating into the body, and holds moisture within the skins surface.
The skin barrier function can be compromised by harsh soaps, bleach, synthetic cosmetic chemicals and other factors that breakdown the lipid barrier, disrupt the acid mantle and harm the microbiome. Stress can also affect the integrity of the barrier function. The result of a compromised skin barrier includes eczema (atopic dermatitis), sensitive skin conditions and dry, chapped skin. Parasitic infection is another hazard of a compromised barrier.
HAND ECZEMA
“Hand eczema” is a term used to describe the skin of the hands when it is broken, irritated, dried or oozing, and sometimes infected. People who are most prone to hand eczema are hospital workers, hairdressers and others whose hands are excessively washed, in detergents or use chemicals without protection such as gloves. The excessive washing of hands, especially with high-alkaline (pH over 8) soaps, may go beyond just dryness and lead to hand eczema.
HOW TO PREVENT DAMAGED SKIN
One important solution to preventing damage to the skin is to avoid the harsher detergent soaps. It has become quite common for people to avoid soaps with sodium laurel(th) sulfate and other similar detergents due to the potential damage to the skin, as well as other concerns.
Castile soap is a common detergent believed to be, and promoted as, “natural.” Many soaps thought to be natural, bar and liquid soaps, can have a very high pH and a damaging effect on the lipid and protein barrier. As with any surfactant (a category of cleansing agents) these soaps must have pH balancing ingredients along with emollients that will counter-act the potential dryness and damage to the skin barrier. If the skin feels squeaky clean after washing, this is a sign that the skin may be compromised. A good cleanser is one where the skin feels clean, but not stripped of oils. A gentle surfactant used for sensitive skin and babies is decyl glucoside. Unless trying to remove grease and deep grime from skin, this ingredient would be suitable and preferred for all skin cleansing.
Alcohol sanitizers, mostly those with a denaturant like isopropanol, can be disruptive to the skins barrier function. The solution is similar to that of cleansers. Use sanitizers that have emollients such as glycerine, aloe or vegetable oils.
MOISTURIZING AND PROTECTIVE BOTANICAL INGREDIENTS
Relieving dry, chapped hands is easy with a little effort and the right moisturizers applied immediately after cleansing. An effective moisturizer has emollients in it that bind to the skin and hold water (moisture) onto the surface of the skin. Three main ingredient categories used in moisturizers are, occlusive, humectant, and reparative. Occlusive are ingredients that form a protective coating on the skin. Most botanical butters and waxes will do this. Some synthetic and petroleum based products, like mineral oil, are occlusive. Humectants hold water and do not form a barrier. Natural humectants include glycerine, aloe vera polysaccharides, honey and hyaluronic acid. The reparative ingredients help restore healthy skin with a long list of botanical extracts available.
The ingredients used in effective and protective moisturizers for the hands will include lipids, fats, waxes, antioxidants and anti-inflammatories. One of the best ingredients that provides solid protection, moisture and creates a temporary moisture barrier to the skin is shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii). There are other butters and waxes that have similar value to shea and these include cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao), honey (though this may be sticky if not formulated well), and mango butter (Mangifera indica).
A moisturizer can be made with aloe vera gel, calendula, rose wax and sea buckthorn
Some herbal extracts may be included for moisturizing, reparative, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory action. A moisturizer can be made with aloe vera gel (Aloe barbadensis), calendula supercritical extract (Calendula officinalis), rose wax (Rosa damascena) and sea buckthorn supercritical extract (Hippophae rhamnoides). Some fatty oils best suited for a hand moisturizer are the luscious and thick textured avocado seed oil (Persea Americana), virgin coconut oil (Cocos nucifera), rosehip seed oil (Rosa canina) and castor oil (Ricinus communis). That’s a short list of a potential long list of great oils for the skin.
ESSENTIAL OILS IN HAND MOISTURIZERS
It’s a well known fact, essential oils are excellent in skin care. The properties desired for skin care, including for dry chapped hands, are anti-inflammatory, cell regenerative and antioxidant. Essential oils aren’t necessarily moisturizing. It’s the mentioned therapeutic properties that restore, repair and protect inflamed skin that makes them a must-have in hand moisturizing. Best choices would be the rich resiny or woody oils like copaiba (Copiafera langsdorffii), myrrh (Commiphora myrrha), vetiver (Vetiveria zizanoides), Atlas cedarwood (Cedrus atlantica), sandalwood (Santalum album) and Buddha wood (Eremophila mitchellii). The ideal restorative oils would be Helichrysum italicum, rosemary verbenone (Rosmarinus officinalis), German chamomile (Matricaria recutita) and lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) - among many others.
WHAT ABOUT VASELINE?
Petroleum based chemicals, like vaseline and mineral oil, have a long history of effective use in preventing and protecting dry chapped skin. The main function of petrochemicals is to form an occlusive layer. They will work for this purpose. The hesitation to the use of vaseline or mineral oil, is they do not offer any reparative function and there are also environmental concerns with the use of petroleum products.
HOW OFTEN AND HOW MUCH
There are no rules around moisturizing your hands. If the hands feel dry, moisturize. It would be beneficial to moisturize the hands every time after using soap and water. Generally hand sanitizers have enough emollients that moisturizing after every use may not be necessary. Let the hands speak to you. If they feel dry, moisturize. If they look or feel irritated, are red or inflamed, definitely moisturize with a restorative formula.
For extreme damage, a moisturizer can be used in a higher amount and left on the hands overnight while wearing cotton gloves to hold in the emollients. The gloves will also keep oils from staining the sheets.
DIY MOISTURIZERS
There are many options for making a good moisturizer. A creamy moisturizing formula will generally be a mix of oil, water and an emulsifier. These are tricky to get the formula just right so a recipe will not be included here. There are some ready made creams that can be bought if making your own seems like more of a challenge than you’d like, but still want a cream you can add your favorite essential oils or other ingredients to.
Shea butter provides protection, moisture and creates a temporary barrier to the skin
Here’s a suggestion for a quick moisturizer with no emulsifiers needed.
51% Shea Butter (14.2grams/15 mL)
16% Jojoba Oil (4.5gr/5mL)
11% Unrefined (or deodorized) coconut oil (3gr/3 mL)
14% Aloe gel (4gr/4mL)
6% Green tea tincture-ethanol extract (2gr/2mL)
2% Essential oil (12 drops/0.6gr/0.6mL)
Weight/volume measurements are for a 1 ounce (29.6 mL or 28 grams).
Combine the shea butter and coconut oil in a bowl and mash together. Add the jojoba and aloe and use a mixer to blend completely (watch for flying bits of oils and butter).
Add the green tea and essential oils and continue mixing. This may be a little runny. If so, put it in the refrigerator until it becomes more of a creamy paste. This formula may feel oily until completely rubbed into the skin. Use sparingly and adjust for a quick penetrating cream.
The gram (gr) and mililiter (mL) measurements may be rounded up or down.
For alternate measurements: 5 mL = 1 teaspoon, 15 mL = 1 tablespoon
A luscious oil base formula:
72% Sunflower seed oil (20gr/21mL)
13% Rosehip seed oil (3.6gr/4mL)
7% Avocado Oil (2gr/2mL)
4% Green tea tincture (1gr/1mL)
2% Calophyllum inophyllum (0.6gr/0.6mL)
2% Essential oil (0.6gr/0.6mL)
This formula may need shaking before each use.
Essential oil formula for over-washed hands
25% Copaiba - 3 drops
13% Buddha wood (or myrrh) - 2 drops
16% Helichrysum - 2 drops
24% Rosemary verbenone - 3 drops
22% Lavandin - 3 drops
Use the drop formula for direct addition to either of the above formulas, or any one ounce container with a base.
REFERENCES
Gfatter, R., et al. “Effects of Soap and Detergents on Skin Surface pH, Stratum Corneum Hydration and Fat Content in Infants.” Dermatology, vol. 195, no. 3, 1997, pp. 258–62,
Schmid - Wendtner, M. H., and Hans Christian Korting. The pH of the Skin Surface and Its Impact on the Barrier Function. Ludwig-Maximilians-Universität München, Jan. 2006,
Adamczyk, Katarzyna, et al. “The Microbiome of the Skin.” Przeglad Dermatologiczny, vol. 105, no. 2, Termedia Publishing House, Mar. 2018, pp. 285–97
Lin, Tzu-Kai, et al. “Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils.” International Journal of Molecular Sciences, vol. 19, no. 1, MDPI AG, Jan. 2018
Stücker, M., et al. “Vitamin B(12) Cream Containing Avocado Oil in the Therapy of Plaque Psoriasis.” Dermatology (Basel, Switzerland), vol. 203, no. 2, Jan. 2001, pp. 141–47
Léguillier, Teddy, et al. “The Wound Healing and Antibacterial Activity of Five Ethnomedical Calophyllum Inophyllum Oils: An Alternative Therapeutic Strategy to Treat Infected Wounds.” PLoS ONE, vol. 10, no. 9, Public Library of Science, Sept. 2015, p. e0138602
Hsu, Stephen. “Green Tea and the Skin.” Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, vol. 52, no. 6, Mosby, Inc, 2005, pp. 1049–59