Holistically Protecting Your Skin’s Barrier: Plant-Based Corneotherapy

Corneotherapy's rise mirrors a core belief in my skincare philosophy: nurture the skin’s protective stratum corneum. This trend also aligns seamlessly with my emphasis on plant-based extracts in skincare.

The synergy of natural plant compounds with the skin’s surface layers and lipid barrier has always been central to my methods. More than just skin health, this approach also embraces emotional wellness, recognizing the profound impact emotions have on skin integrity. In the spirit of naming things, let’s call this approach 'plant-based corneotherapy.' We can explore holistic skincare methods that engage the full potential of plant-based ingredients for maintaining an optimal lipid barrier.

The skin’s surface, the stratum corneum, is your outer presentation of health and beauty. It influences skin tone, vitality, and the appearance of fitness. Playing a pivotal role in this is the lipid barrier, a complex matrix composed of fats, cholesterol, ceramides, and other protective compounds, crucial for skin integrity. We're not talking only surface-level aesthetics. The lipid barrier plays a crucial role in maintaining skin integrity. It prevents Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL), ensuring our skin stays hydrated and robust. It also acts as a shield against harmful chemicals and parasites from entering our bodies. A compromised lipid barrier can lead to atopic dermatitis, increased susceptibility to illness, and overall toxicity. The health of the lipid barrier is integral not just to skin beauty, but to our physical and mental wellbeing.

Plant-based lipid barrier protection

My approach has always been grounded in the ability of plant-based ingredients to protect and enhance the skin's lipid barrier. Embracing the harmony of nature, these ingredients are integral elements that work synergistically with our skin.

Plant oils , including jojoba oil, coconut oil, peanut oil, sesame seed oil, and sunflower seed oil, benefit skin applications due to their anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. Along with their ability to promote wound healing, and role in restoring and maintaining skin barrier function. Shea butter is recognized for its content of triterpenes, known for inducing cell migration, proliferation, and collagen deposition (Lin, T. K., et al., 2017).

Lecithin, containing phospholipids, is another beneficial plant derived extract. Phospholipids have been shown to enhance the skin barrier and display anti-inflammatory effects (Lin TK, et al. 2017). Topical application of ceramides, derived from rice or synthetic versions, could also restore barrier integrity (Choi, E.-H., et al., 2005).

These plant extracts would be comparable with the skin’s natural barrier, helping to mimic and reinforce its functions. The acid mantle of the skin’s surface also provides important protection. The pH of water-based skin care using botanical oils and extracts tends to keep the pH in the slightly acidic range. This works in harmony with, or at least does not compromise, the skin’s acid mantle. The protective properties of these extracts may help to restore a compromised acid mantle (Lukić, M., et al., 2021).

The skin’s surface is challenged by inflammation and oxidative stress. Integrating supercritical extracts such as astaxanthin, sea buckthorn, and raspberry seed is key in bolstering the skin’s defenses against inflammation and oxidative stress. Along with essential oils, these extracts enhance and assist the lipid barrier in protection from damage.

Serving as a co-partner

If the lipid barrier is compromised or damaged, it can only be replenished through the natural processes within the epidermis. There are no topical ingredients that can be expected to replace it or rebuild it. The benefit of plant compounds is the ability to mimic barrier function. To be fair, several synthetics are designed to fill the lipid barrier. The difference is in the multi-function, holistic complexity gained from botanical extracts.

The natural plant compounds serve similar therapeutic and protective properties as the lipid barrier. These are the anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and anti-parasitic properties. The natural fats sit topically in harmony with the lipids of the skin. When the lipid barrier is compromised, the plant extracts can fill in, protect and mimic the barrier function. This allows the skin to heal and naturally regenerate the barrier's fats, ceramides and compounds.

The stratum corneum is constantly reading, and adjusting to, environmental conditions. This is especially evident with temperature and humidity. The skin is also serving to protect against environmental factors like pollution, allergens, and UV radiation. Along with low humidity, these conditions may lead to dryness, irritation, and accelerated aging. The skin’s stratum corneum and lipid barrier function serves as a shield, protecting against external aggressors. While maintaining skin hydration, it acts as defense against harmful substances, thus playing a vital role in overall skin health and resilience.

Essential oils, seed oils and other botanical extracts deliver potent protection to the skin from environmental factors. The oxidative damage and inflammation created by damaging environmental conditions are prevented and often resolved through the use of these plant extracts. The conditioning and regenerative properties of essential oils assists in reversing any damage to the skin the environment may have caused.

As would be expected, the sun’s Ultraviolet Radiation (UVR), particularly UVB radiation, can cause significant changes in the intercellular lipids of the stratum corneum. These changes are linked to decreased cohesion within the skin's outermost layer and alterations in its barrier function. The research suggests that UV radiation leads to modifications in the lipid content and structure within the stratum corneum, which in turn impacts its mechanical integrity and barrier properties (Biniek, K., et al., 2012).

Some studies have mentioned plant oils, such as coconut, peanut, sesame, and avocado oils, provide protection against UV radiation damage to the skin (Lin, T. K., et al., 2017). Astaxanthin is well researched for providing protecting from the sun’s harmful UVR (Ito, N., et al., 2018). These oils contain various compounds that exhibit antioxidant properties, which can help in mitigating the harmful effects of UV exposure.

There are many essential oils, such as frankincense, turmeric, lavender and ginger, that have been shown to be protective from skin UV damage (Harrison, J. 2009).

Emotions compromise lipid barrier function

Psychological stress can significantly disrupt the skin's stratum corneum function, linked to decreased lipid production and compromised barrier homeostasis. This is where the holistic properties of essential oils come into play. Not only do they offer physical benefits such as antioxidant, wound-healing, and anti-inflammatory effects, but they also provide emotional balance, a crucial aspect of maintaining a healthy lipid barrier. Through inhalation, a given when applying topically to the skin, essential oils ease stress, anxiety, nervous system tension and the inflammation that results from negative emotions.

Skin care products and cleansers

It has become common knowledge that certain skin care products, especially cleansers, can be harmful, irritating and destructive to the skin’s barrier. It is important to remove debris and makeup from the skin. Be careful what you choose. Cleansers can negatively affect the skin's structural and functional integrity. If you feel squeaky clean following cleansing, you have stripped sebum, damaged barrier lipids and have disrupted the pH of the skin’s surface.

Your cleanser should contain gentle, non aggressive surfactants (the cleansing agents). These don’t always provide the desired, and unnecessary, sudsing. What will do is prevent chemical damage. The most gentle and effective would be non-ionic surfactants that include, alkyl polyglucosides, coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside and decyl glucoside. The harshest are the well known sulfates, most popular being sodium laurel sulfate. Bar soaps and so-called natural cleansers, like castile soap, have varying content. The potential to irritate the skin’s barrier will be dependent on the content of the cleanser.

Skin serums, creams and lotions, whether synthetic or plant-based, will have variation in skin irritation. Mostly, not a concern. The issue is individual skin allergies or sensitivity. If you have a reaction, which is disruptive to the stratum corneum and lipid structure, stop using it. Simple enough. Caution should be given to products that contain retinols or hydroxy acids. These can be sensitizing, cause inflammation and cause disruption to the barrier.

In essence, adopting a plant-based corneotherapy regimen means more than just applying products. It's about embracing a holistic approach to skin health that resonates with the natural world and our inherent biological systems. This practice, deeply intertwined with my philosophy, offers a path to the healthiest, most vibrant, and youthful skin.

How do you protect the barrier function of your clients, or your own, skin?

If you need help with plant-based corneotherapy, connect with me for a free 30 Minute Consulation.

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